knitting patterns – Katie Fustich

Free Knitting Pattern: 21st Century Austen Heroine
INTRO

May this bonnet be a testament to the fact that necessity breeds innovation. After I was struck with a powerful urge to knit a chapeau of this style, a search led me to the realization that no such pattern exists (for adults anyway…per usual, my desired mode of dress is reserved for humans under 2 years old).

Well, I thought, time to brush off my patternmaking skills and put together the hat of my dreams. After a few attempts, I developed “21st Century Austen Heroine” so named after the fact that it is both romantic and a little odd – just like my favorite characters.

The bonnet can be worn fastened for an elegant look, or untied for an effortlessly cool vibe. While I chose a neutral shade to match my winter wear, I think this would look equally incredible in a vibrant shade.

However you decide to rock your bonnet, may your chilly days be filled with wit, warmth, and love! ♡

MATERIALS
- Size 3 circular needles
- Size 3 straight needles
- Approximately 275 yards of fingering weight yarn
  - I used Diamond Laine Elmer in the colorway “Cashew”
  - Shout out to “The Lamb & Kid” on Bainbridge Island, WA, where I purchased this yarn. It’s one of the most beautiful fiber shops I’ve ever been to!
GAUGE + FINISHED DIMENSIONS

1” wide = 5 ½ stitches

1” tall = 8 stitches

THE PATTERN

BACK OF THE HEAD

Cast on 33 stitches.

Row 1: Slip 1 stitch, knit 32 stitches.

Row 2: Slip 1 stitch, purl 32 stitches.

Repeat Rows 1 & 2 until your piece measures roughly 9” long, unstretched.

Cut the working yarn.

SHAPING THE HEAD

You will now begin shaping the crown of the head. To do this, you will pick up and knit the sides of your piece, and continue knitting back and forth. If you have ever knit a sock, this stage is going to look very similar to picking up the heel flap. If you haven’t knit a sock, ignore me and forge on!

With the right side of the fabric facing you, use one of your straight needles to pick up 33 stitches alongside the left edge of your piece.

Then, use another straight needle to pick up 33 stitches along the right edge of your piece.

You should now have a total of 99 stitches across your three needles. You can continue working across three needles, or move all stitches back to the circular needle (it might be a little tight at first, so you may want to work a few rows across three needles before transferring).

Row 1: With the RS of the fabric facing you, knit across all 99 stitches.

Row 2: With the WS of the fabric facing you, purl across all 99 stitches.

Gradually, you will see the crown of the head begin to take shape.

Continue knitting Rows 1 & 2 until the piece measures approximately 9.5 inches tall, and – when laid flat and folded in half – 7.5 inches across at its widest point.

End on a RS row.

For a larger, deeper bonnet, you can continue knitting, but you will want to stop approximately 1 inch less than your desired length.

FINISHING THE HEAD

You will now create the garter stitch edging on the front of the bonnet.

Row 1: With WS of the fabric facing, knit all stitches.

Row 2: With RS of the fabric facing, knit all stitches.

Rows 3, 5, 7, 9: Repeat Row 1.

Rows 4, 6, 8: Repeat Row 2.

Row 10: Cast off using your preferred method. I used the “Jenny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off” method, but any bind-off will do.

Cut the working yarn.

ADDING THE TIES

You will now add the bottom brim of the hat and the ties in one fell swoop!

Row 1: Using your circular needle, cast on 75 stitches.

Then, with the RS of the hat facing you, pick up the bottom edge of the hat. The size of the hat will dictate just how many stitches you pick up. Using my gauge and dimensions, I picked up a total of 78 stitches. The most important thing here is to ensure you pick up an even number of stitches on both sides of the hat, with the back of the hat as the midpoint.

After you have picked up the bottom edge of the hat, cast on an additional 75 stitches.

Your circular needle should now have a total of 228 stitches ready to knit.

Row 2: With WS of the fabric facing, knit all stitches.

Row 3: With RS of the fabric facing, knit all stitches.

Rows 4, 6, 8, 10: With WS of the fabric facing, knit all stitches.

Rows 5, 7, 9: With RS of the fabric facing, knit all stitches.

Row 11: Cast off using your preferred method. I used the “Jenny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off” method, but any bind-off will do.

Cut yarn and weave in all ends.

Go forth and be fabulous!
Jan 23, 2024

knitting

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. . .
Pattern Preview: Bettie High-Waisted Shorts

I am so happy to share that later this week I’ll be publishing my next knitting pattern: the Bettie High-Waisted Shorts! They’re the perfect sexy winter loungewear ♥

Get your needles ready–Bettie is coming soon!

xoxo

Feb 3, 2015

knitting

knitting, knitting patterns, photo, preview

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Free Pattern: Ygritte Shawl + The Loop Stitch
Before we get knitting today, we’ll need to learn the loop stitch. The loop stitch is a really, really cool technique that can be used to create a shag-like texture.

To show you how it’s done–I’ve made a quick video. So grab some needles and yarn and let’s get practicing!

That wasn’t so bad! I promise it’ll become complete second nature in no time.

Now that we’ve mastered this rad technique, let’s try it out in a pattern: The Ygritte Shawl

The Ygritte Shawl is a collar, wrap, loopy, over the shoulder thing that is gonna look amazing worn over a band t-shirt, a leather jacket, a denim button down–whatever your fabulous heart desires. The pattern named after the fiercest Wildling babe from Game of Thrones. Even if you aren’t a fan–think of this as your knitted battle armor.

This shawl is worked in two separate pieces–a left and right side–and then seamed down the center back. You are welcome to try and work it in one piece–I just thought that making stitches while trying to make loops at the same time was guaranteed to get a bit messy!

One last thing before we get started–here’s a diagram to guide you as to the shape of the pieces:

MATERIALS NEEDED
- 1 pair of size 19 (15mm) straight needles
- 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Super Soft Merino in Black, or approximately 87 yards of a comparable bulky yarn
- A sewing needle, scissors, measuring tape
ABBREVIATIONS USED
- k: knit
- p: purl
- slst: slip one stitch knitwise
- L: loop stitch
CASTING ON

Loosely cast on 15 stitches.

BODY

1(RS): slst, k, *(L, k) *repeat until there are two stitches left in the row, k2

2(WS): slst, k, p until there are two stitches left, k2

3: slst, k, *(k, L) *repeat until there are two stitches left, k2

4: slst, k, p until there are two stitches left, k2

Repeat these four rows, ending on a right side row, until your piece measures 10 inches.

As mentioned earlier, you are making two halves and then putting them together. The body is the same for both, so you will knit this section twice. You will then follow the instructions for “Decreasing – Left Side” for one piece “Decreasing – Right Side” for the other.

DECREASING – LEFT SIDE

Your next row should be a wrong side row. You will shape the shawl–aka make the decreases–on the wrong side rows. Right side rows will be knitted normally.

1(WS): slst, k, p2, p2, p until there are two stitches left, k2 (13 stitches remain)

2(RS): slst, k, *(L, k) *repeat until there are two stitches left, k2

3: slst, k, p2, p2, p2, p until there are two stitches left, k2 (10 stitches remain)

4: slst, k, *(k, L) *repeat until there are two stitches left, k2

5: Same as Row 3 (7 stitches remain)

6: Same as Row 2

7: sl st, k, p2, p1, pass p2 stitch over p1 stitch, k2 (5 stitches remain)

8: Same as Row 4

9: sl1, p2, p1, pass p2 stitch over p1 stitch, k1 (3 stitches remain)

10: Same as Row 2

11: (Three stitches left) p2, p1, pass p2 stitch over p1 stitch. Cut yarn and pull through to close the loop.

You are finished with the left side!

DECREASING – RIGHT SIDE

This side follows the same basic pattern as the left–the decreases just happen on the opposite side!

1(WS): slst, k, p7, p2, p2, k2 (13 stitches remain)

2(RS): slst, k, *(L, k) *repeat until there are two stitches left, k2

3: slst, k, p3, p2, p2, p2, k2 (10 stitches remain)

4: slst, k, *(k, L) *repeat until there are two stitches left, k2

5: slst, k, p2, p2, p2, k2 (7 stitches remain)

6: Same as Row 2

7: sl st, k, p2, p1, pass p2 stitch over p1 stitch, k2 (5 stitches remain)

8: Same as Row 4

9: sl1, p2, p1, pass p2 stitch over p1 stitch, k1 (3 stitches remain)

10: Same as Row 2

11: (Three stitches left) p2, p1, pass p2 stitch over p1 stitch. Cut yarn and pull through to close the loop.

You are finished with the right side!

ASSEMBLY

With yarn and thread, seam the two sides together at the cast-on edge.

FINISHING

Sew in all loose ends. If you choose to block, I recommend steam blocking under a towel. This texture is very sensitive!
Jan 9, 2015

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My First (FREE) Pattern is Here!

Hare & Anser is proud to be kicking off the new year with our first knitting pattern: The Wonder Woman Beanie and Cowl set. It’s a super-simple pattern that’s great for beginner knitters, and a fun quick knit for the more experienced knitter.

I promise you will not regret bringing these ultra-cozy pieces into your winter wardrobe.

The pattern is now available to download for free (!!!) in the shop. The pattern is also available on Ravelry.

I’d love to hear your feedback and see your own creations.

Look for more patterns to come in the next couple weeks….!

xoxo

Jan 4, 2015

knitting

beanie, cowl, download, free, knitting, knitting patterns, patterns, winter, wonder woman

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